Day 18 :: A Leap of Faith

Day 18 - Deep Canyon

Yesterday, I made a very difficult decision. Of my mere 24 days in New Zealand - and I've skipped a lot to make most of it happen - I had allocated 3 glorious days to the famed Routeburn Track, which is a beautiful hike up steep glacial mountains for a good view of the souther alps. I even had packed some of my camping gear for the trek. Last night, however, I realized I hadn't left much time at all to see Fiordlands - the very reason I wanted to come to New Zealand 4 years ago. In fact, I left it as no more than a day trip. This is the area that the UN had declared a World Heritage site! So, last night I cancelled my trek on the Routeburn. In the process, I had booked myself an overnight kayak and cruise of Milford Sound... and 2 free days to kill. To fill this new found time, I walked around town searching through hundreds of adrenalin-promising-brochures. Sure enough, I ran into Deep Canyons (www.deepcanyon.co.nz) and was allured by the abseiling into waterfalls and jumping into stream pools.

I arrived on time and found out that the other 3 people that signed up were a no show and there was a good chance that I would either have to take a raincheck or downgrade to the easier "Little Niger" package from the "Big Nige". (I had chose "Big Nige" because I had found out in Waitomo Caves that abseiling is "my thing" and I simply wanted more of a "PUSH".) But the folks at the tour company as well as my awesome guide James took me anyway! So my first 1 hour or so was just me and my guide James abseiling down 3 waterfalls (maybe a good 12 or so meters down), before we eventually rejoined the rest of the group signed up for the "Little Niger". Don't get me wrong... the "Little Niger" was certainly as exciting as the "Big Nige" - full of slides, (small and BIG) jumps, as well as 5 abseils. But I really wanted MORE... and I got what I asked for! Did I mention that I did 8 abseils and jumped off a 40-foot ledge into a pool of water and the bottom of a waterfall? About 5% of their clients jump from that high... that's all I needed to hear to do it. :)

If you don't know what abseiling is, it's basically "repelling" - like in the movies where the hero or heroine zips down a cord off a straight down a building or into a cave. (Think Tombraider or Mission Impossible.) And if you still can't figure it out, why don't you check out my photos, or better yet the VIDEO! (Since my cameras would've been totally busted, these pics/vids are complements of the outfitters.)


(Problems? Try here: http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-1867266483002795568&hl=en)

Cheers for now. I promised more heart-pumping (or -stopping?) action when I get to Queenstown.

Video soundtrack is "Don't Worry, Be Happy" by Bobby McFerrin.

Video Highlight :: West Coast Drive

Watch New Zealand's South Island landscape zip by, as I drive 300km from Franz Josef on the west coast to the edge of the Southern Alps in Wanaka.
Soundtrack song "Deliverance" by Bubba Sparxxx.

Day 17 :: West Coast Drive

Day 17 - West Coast Drive

No specific plans for today. Just another long drive... this time from Franz Josef to Wanaka. It started out as another usuall New Zealand day (from my experience) chilly, overcast and slightly wet. More winding roads followed the coast until I reached the small town of Haast. From there, I started heading west and got my first taste of New Zealand's southern alps. It was glorious. Raging rivers, wide valleys with turquoise streams, steep mountain faces and blue glacial lakes. This reminded me a lot about my second home - Colorado, but with its own flavour of mountain life. Tonight I sleep in Wanaka, a peaceful but modern town (supposed to be "the next Queenstown" for it's adventure).

The photo to the right is of 2 more hitch-hikers I picked up along my 300km drive. About 30km out of town, just outside of the town "Fox Glacier", I found these poor souls on outskirts of nowhere. Somehow they thought they could hike to the trail head of Copland Track (which was actually 21 MORE kilometers from where they were. This pair is Dominik and Sabine from Koln, Germany who moved to Christchurch for a new life.

Unforunately, I won't get to see much of the high snow-capped souther alps... not only due to the summer season, but also because scenic flights are EXPENSIVE. I didn't want my adventures in the mountains to end without a bang. So tomorrow, I go canyoning! Check out what this adventure holds at http://www.deepcanyon.co.nz/

Video Highlight :: Franz Josef Glacier

Watch some scenes from my guided hike onto Franz Josef Glacier.
Soundtrack by Vanilla Ice, "Ice Ice Baby".

Day 16 :: Walking on Thick Ice

Day 16 - Franz Josef Glacier

I've always wanted to hunt for Yeti, so I today I hiked onto the ice of Franz Josef Glacier - named for an Austrian emperor that's never been to New Zealand, but nevertheless there you have it. Unfortunately, I remember after I signed up for the 8-hour guided trek that landmass that composes New Zealand had drifted away from Gondwanaland millions of years ago before mammals had evolved. This means that Yeti could have never walked from the Himalayas to kiwi-land via land bridge. Unless of course they stowed away on polynesian ships, but you and I know that the Maori would not allow that... so... today, I simply enjoyed the thrill of walking on thousands years worth of ice hundreds of meters thick and several kilometers long.

I learned something that the Bush administration would love to hear - namely, that this particular glacier is not retreating, but has in fact advanced about 400 meters in the last 5 years. Quite different than all the other hundreds of glaciers around the world. The maori actually have another reason for the glacier. In short, a demi-goddess of the moutains fell in love with a demi-god of the sea who in his love for her thought he could mountaineer his way up to her. However, he fell to his death and to mourn him, she wept tears that filled the valley and into the sea. The Maori gods decided to freeze her tears as a symbol for their love. And to this day, they say that when the glacier retreats, the demi-godess is in a slightly better mood... and if it advances, not so good.

Having hiked the Harding Icefield in Kenai Alaska, I expected the trek to be much more strenuous. However, it was rather tame, but undoubtedly rewarding and fun. We approached the glacier head on - our guides hacking away steps into the terminal face of the glacier. Within a couple of ours, we were all face-to-face with blue ice and deep crevasses. Occasionally, our guides would pause to assess thin overhangs of ice that could cave in on us if it was too week. My favorite comment from a group member was, "... are there toilets up here?" There aren't. But the guides promised he would "find her one" somewhere among the ice... to think of it, there were many ice drains where ice-melt flowed much like a flush-toilet. Thousands of years in the future, one of our descendents will drink from its rivers and be awestruck by the richness of the water :)

Cheers for now. Tomorrow, off to Wanaka!

Day 15 :: Long Haul South on Hwy 6

Day 15 - Long Haul South, West Coast

Today was a day of recovery after 2 days of kayaking... and by "recovery", I mean it in the Jude-sense. That is, wake up at the break of dawn and head south to the town of Franz Josef Glacier which is 500km or 310 miles. For those of you that are geographically-challenged, that's longer than a drive from LA to Las Vegas, or New York to Washington DC. The only difference is that it's a one lane road for each direction with more twists-and-turns than a pretzel.

This drive took me from warm sandy beaches and over the front range of New Zealand's Southern Alps. I passed through the towns of Murchison, Westport, Punakaiki, Greymouth, and Hokitka. In Punakaiki, I stopped by the "Pancake Rocks & Blowholes", which are limestone formations (cliffs and arches) that stand on the edge of the sea by the crashing waves that formed them. Near the carpark ("parking lot" for Americans), there was a grassy lawn where I woman was sleeping. A nosy weka - a native flightless bird and cousins to the kiwi - pecked at her hair and backpack while she slept.

At Hokitka, I stopped for some ice cream and browsed through a shop called Jade World where jade carvings were made. On the way out, I happend along 2 hitch-hikers just where the town meets Highway 6. They didn't look like killers, and for the remaining 160km it was nice to have some company. So I stopped along the road and met Jonny (from England) and Valeria (from Munich, Germany). They threw their guitar, packs and food in the back and we were on our way. It turned out they were also on their way to Franz Josef, so it worked out perfectly. Each of them had been travelling in New Zealand for almost 2-3 months now. Jonny in fact had been travelling for more than a year, mostly in Austrailia. We told eachother stories of our adventures during the ride. Coincidentally, Jonny had also met Vladimir Yarets in Austrailia! (This was the same deaf-mute motorcycle traveller that I met in Auckland on Day 2 of my own journey.) What a small (traveller) world we live in. We exchanged numbers, and might join for the ride down to Wanaka and/or Queenstown after my 2-night stay in Franz Josef.

Day 13-14 :: Kayak Adventures in the Abel Tasman

Day 13,14 - Adventures in Abel Tasman

I spent the last two days on a grand kayaking adventure exploring South Island's Abel Tasman National Park (from the water) and the adjacent Tonga Island Marine Reserve (like a national park, but on/under the water). With me were 5 companions (all hailing from different lands) and our our wicked-awesome guide Stephen (from Wellington). First, there was a nice couple - Bob and Virginia from beautiful Idaho (USA). Another couple - Fiona and Dwayne hailing from Van Couver, British Columbia (Canada). And last but not least, our beloved comedian Kevin (from Ireland).

Across the 2 days, we would kayak 27 km from the north at Shag Harbour and back south to Kaiteriteri. Along the way we would skirt rocky shores, land and swim on golden-sand beaches, befriend sun-basking seals (though Kevin was set on some good old-fashioned seal-clubbing), power through rocking waves, form a make-shift sailing vessel, learn about nature and history, play bumper-boats, peer into shallow turquoise waters, explore coves and inlets, circle islands of seal colonies, camp and dine on beaches, explore tide pools and gaze upon clear skies and the milky-way. If you haven't already, check out pictures of our adventures here! Check out a map of our routes here.

One really great experience in particular was learning how to catch crabs. In the evening of the first day, we were left to our own endeavours. I decided to walk out to the beach. Kevin was just about to go for an evening swim (in chilly waters), when we both saw low-tide had brought the water far out... about a 10 minute walk from our campsite (rather than 10 seconds). With no interest in hiking to swim, he withdrew. This would turn out to be a very good idea, as I would find out later on.

I ventured on and noticed an old man and his grandson approaching the beach with a big iron rake and a burlap sack. "Out to catch dinner?" I asked. "Just a small appetizer," the old man answered, "You like crab? If you come along, you can have some for dinner." I followed as they combed the shallow waters at the edge of the beach, disturbing armies of crabs of all sizes from their burrows just centimeters beneath the sand. We had let several dozen smallies escape the rake, before we found big-mama crabs that were succulent and rotund enough for eating. The man's grandson screamed in delight, excitement and fear of getting pinched by one. In a matter of an hour we caught half-a-dozen fat crabs, and I learned a new way to catch crabs and how to grab these fierce little beasts without drawing (my own) blood. Good times.

The weather had gladly cleared up. And though we all suffered a little bit of sun-burn, I can't complain about the warm weather and sunny skies. It sure beats kayaking and camping on grim gray beaches an paddling through rain and choppy water!

Before I leave you off, I must tell you that aside from being a knee-slapping-funny guy and strong paddler, Kevin is also a world traveler. He's on a 15-month journey to explore the breadth of the world, starting in New Zealand and venturing west through Australasia, Asia, Eurasia and then the Central and South Americas. Good luck to him! Check out his progress on this amazing travels on his blog @ www.worldwidekev.com - he has some funny stories off the beaten path.

Day 12 :: Exploring Golden Bay

Day 12 - Exploring Golden Bay

The forecast doesn't look good for my 2-day kayak trip through Abel Tasman; but then again, when has the weather here in New Zealand ever worked for me? I think it's warmer in the States than it is here... or maybe it's just the gloomy rain. I'll admit that I was expecting an austral summer here in the southern hemisphere, but it was warmer in Alaska in August.

Anyways, today I drove to Farewell Spit, which forms that hook at the northwest tip of New Zealand's southern island. It was quite foggy, drizzly and windy so it wasn't the most joyful trip, but it was a nice gettaway from civilization. In fact, before I found Farewell Spit, I took the wrong road and drove on dirt-and-gravel roads for about 30km (fording streams, driving over boulders, turning around blind switchbacks) before I realized I was heading far inland. Then later on, I made it 25km from the nearest town and up a mountain top when I noticed my tank was empty! I had to backtrack, 'lest I get stuck on a switchback on the mountain 35km from the nearest gas station. I headed back praying the whole way for my unconsequential return. A miracle I made it.

Now, I'm back in Motueka at an internet cafe praying food good weather this week. If my kayak trip gets cancelled, I'm treating myself to a nice helicopter tour of the mountains. Bah humbug.

Day 11 :: Drive to Golden Bay

Day 11 - Golden Bay

Today was all about taking it very easy, driving east from Picton west to Takaka/Golden Bay. I drove through winding switchbacks that skirt the contours of the Marlborough Sounds, had a nice stroll in the town of Nelson, and finally drove over a mountain pass to Takaka in Golden Bay. With a whole afternoon of sun, I explored the many beaches and tide pools at low tide with enough time to make it back to the hostel to watch Star Ship Troopers on TV.

Day 10 :: Crossing Cook Strait

Day 10 - Crossing Cook Strait

Today, I spent the day exploring Wellington at an easy pace, before boarding the luxurious Interislander Ferry to cross Cook Strait to New Zealand's South Island. The ferry has three accesible decks, complete with arcade, movie theatre, play area, bar, cafe and many lounges. Spent the night in the hub town of Picton where I picked up my new rental car - a new Toyota RAV4.